How Organic Control Methods Get Rid of Weeds Effectively

Weeds aggressively grows in lawns, gardens and natural areas. These unwanted plants block sunlight and get the important nutrients needed by growing plants. Determining the two weed life cycles such as annual or perennial is important in exhibiting control methods.

One of the best methods is the Organic Weed Control. This method is cheaper and simpler to manage. Mulching and the use of gardening tools are good practices for getting rid of weeds.

Mulch
Garden mulch is a protective layer on top of the soil that suppresses weeds. It is used for protection from threading, compaction and erosion. This method can act as an aid to plant culture. It conditions and retains warmth in the soil. The best time to mulch is during autumn and spring.

Mulch can be categorized in three methods:
1. Sheet Mulch - This is the best method of suppressing perennial weeds. It is easy to cut into shape, relocate, plant and store. Sheet mulch can avoid damages onto vegetables and roots of fruits. It can also improve the use of its top covering of bark or chippings.

Types of Mulch can be identified as:
o Geotextile - This is a woven or non woven permeable sheet and needle punch made from polypropylene and polyester. This can be used as a barrier between the soil and loose mulch in order to diminish perennial weeds.
o Black (White) Plastic Sheet - These are black plastic sheets (400-600 gauge of silage sheeting) that warms the soil. It keeps its moist.
o Fibre Sheets - This is a bio-degradable bonded wood developed for garden applications such as tree and flower seeded mats.
o Newspapers - These are whole 8 sheet thick papers that go together with weed-tops, including straws that hold and compost in order to suppress weeds on vegetable plots. This becomes a paper mash that can be forked and added as organic matter for the soil.
o Cardboard - A brown cardboard is more effective when it breaks down and encourages earthworms. This material allows air flow and even penetrates water.

2. Ornamental mulch - This enhances the landscape along pathways and the entire yard. It blends with house colors and decors. Using permeable barrier membranes, wood chip and gravel, this will prevent the sinkage of the soil.

3. Organic Mulch - This is widely used mulch meant for fruit bushes and flowers. It conditions and feeds the soil. It also protects it against drought in the summer and even improves drainage. Some of its properties are as follows:
o Easy to apply with a reasonable price.
o Freely drains and permits good aeration.
o Not too low Nitrogen content.
o Water will not become saturated.

Organic mulch can act as a leaf mold It can be used as a base for composting seeds. By gathering fall leaves inside a bag and leaving it to rot will eventually help add nutrients to the soil. Pine needles and lawn cuttings can retain soil moisture. For "no dig gardening", farmyard manure is best applied in roses, pumpkins and cucumber among others, especially during the spring or late winter seasons. Other types used include straw, hay, weeds, green tops, and garden composts.

The use of the right gardening tools will satisfy the implementation of organic weed control methods. This will help gardeners maintain and remove weeds with no hassle. Fork tools can also remove underground stems of perennial weeds, without slicing the roots of plants or even damaging crops. While garden claws act as a cultivator of small gardens in order to loosen weeds, the claw can easily use top dressings or fertilizers for repetitive action. For tap roots and disturbed weeds, you can use a Dutch hoe, spade and shovel.

For successful usage of the organic control method, one must aim for a 100% soil coverage and clear off open ground. Regular inspection or an immediate spotting of weeds while young is necessary. Regular mowing is also sufficient. Nothing is safer than using organic method for removing weeds.

For more information on Weed control advice and Electric Weed Eaters please visit our website.

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Organic Farming Methods

Crop rotation prevents crops from draining the soil of minerals that are needed to grow those crops. Pets are kept away with natural harmless methods - for example, fruit orchards are kept free of white fly by introducing beetles that do not eat the fruits and only eat the fruit flies, while hedgerows encourage the presence of birds and insects, which feed on pests. Healthy crops grown on rich soil are also more able to resist disease. The soil used in organic farming is bountiful and fertile in the long term.

Organically grown food is much better for the health and has more flavor than food produced in an intensive way because it contains more nutrients, which have been taken up from the rich soil. The soil in Bama, for example, has been found to be high in manganese and zinc, and hair analysis tests have shown that these same minerals are at the right levels for optimum hearth health in the Bama people. According to the Soil Association in the UK, research comparing the nutrient contents of organic and non-organic fruit and vegetables reveals a strong trend towards higher levels in organic produce.

Organic Fruit

Organic produce still has a way to go. It is more expensive than non-organic produce and is not widely accessible as it could be. The amount of money that the government has put into promoting organic farming is minuscule compared with how much it has invested in more modern, hi-tech farming methods. Yet organic farming is often best for the consumer, the farmer and the environment, especially in the long term. By buying organic when you can, and encouraging your local to promote organic foods, you will help improve your own health and that of the planet.

Raw foods are said to be the pinnacle of what you can put in your body in terms of nutrients, I used a lot of them in making green smoothies, even better would be organically grown foods used in them.

Organic Farming Methods

Gary lock is a health author and blogs regularly about Raw Foods as well as Green Tea Smoothies

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Growing Tomatoes Using Organic Methods

WHERE TO PLANT

Tomatoes need full sun - make sure your tomato plants get most of the available sun between 7am and 7pm during most of the summer. Tomatoes also need well-drained soil. This can be achieved in raised beds, or by adding well-composted manure and compost to the soil.

Organic Fruit

We've been successful planting in rocky soil (small stones). The rocks absorb and retain heat and keep the soil warm into the evening.

WHEN TO PLANT

Tomatoes need a warm and relatively long growing season. In many parts of the country, tomato seeds must be started indoors. Start your seeds 6-8 weeks before the danger of frost is past and garden soil temperature is 60°-70°F.

We used to start our tomatoes indoors earlier than we do now. Here in Eastern Washington State, because we have short growing seasons and long winters, it's hard to resist the gardening bug that infects us in February. Planting too early results in plants growing taller than the grow-lights permit, and a sunny window generally does not provide enough light to prevent spindly growth.

Sowing tomato seeds 6-8 weeks (no earlier than 8 weeks) before setting out is should be enough growing time. Our plants are healthier when we are patient.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Tomatoes grow best in a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8. Correct amounts of calcium (lime) may be added to the soil to bring the pH level up. One pound of lime per 30 sq. ft. should be sufficient.

Lime will also increase your levels of potassium (K). N-P-K Levels: (N)-High (P)-High (K)-High

SEEDS / GERMINATION

Tomatoes germinate well in a soil-less material such as perlite or vermiculite. Germination takes approximately 6 days when soil temperature is kept between 78°- 86°F.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Sow seeds in flats ¼" deep - 1" apart. Tomato seeds germinate best in the dark at 85°F, although they will germinate with temperatures as low as 60°F; it just takes longer. Once seedlings emerge, keep the room temperature no higher than 70°F and soil moist but not soggy.

Transplant seedlings at least once to a larger flat or container before planting outside. Plant deeper than they were before (especially if they have gotten spindly). We use quart cartons or 4" planting pots and re-use them annually. Allow 2" spacing between plants. Apply an organic leaf spray once every week or two until bloom. Discard sick or spindly plants that could potentially be disease carriers.

With newly transplanted indoor seedlings, increase exposure to light and cut back slightly on the watering but don't allow soil to dry out. Brush your hand (daily) lightly over the tops of the tomatoes to simulate a slight breeze. This releases a hormone in the tomato plants that encourages thicker, bushier growth. One to two weeks before transferring your tomato's from indoor conditions to outdoors, it is highly recommended to "harden off" your tomato plants. This means to set them outside during the day-light hours and bringing them back indoors before sunset for one week. This helps them acclimate to the outdoors and prevents transplant shock.

PLANTING AND GROWING

(Planting seeds directly into the garden)

There are two options when growing tomatoes...to stake or not to stake.

Staked tomatoes are less likely to rot (being off the ground). They produce higher levels of vitamin C due to more sun exposure. Yet, allowing indeterminate (see the addendum at the end of this article that discusses determinate and indeterminate tomato plants) tomato plants to sprawl across the ground will produce more fruit. We made an accidental discovery a few years ago when we were remodeling during planting season. We were lucky to get the plants in at all let alone stake them. To improvise, we just propped football-sized rocks under the tomato clusters of the un-staked plants to keep them off the ground. The result (due to rocks retaining heat) was that we had tomatoes two weeks earlier than anyone else!

The best way we have found to plant tomato starts (and the way our family has done it for three generations) is to dig a trench 6" long and 5"-6" deep for an 8" tall plant. Sprinkle the bottom of each hole with several inches of loose compost (N). Place handful of bone meal (P) and 1 teaspoon Epsom salts (magnesium) which will encourage plant productivity and vitality. Lay the plant down in the hole with only the top leaves showing above the soil level. Be careful not to break the stem when placing it in the hole and bending it upward. You will notice the numerous "hairs" on the stem. Each one of those fine hairs is a potential root and the more of these that can be placed in the ground the stronger root system will develop.

Once your tomato is positioned in the hole, fill hole half way with soil. Fill the rest of the way with water. Let the water drain; finish filling the hole with dirt. Press the soil down enough to remove any air and support the plant, then water thoroughly.

For staked tomatoes (determinate), plant 2' apart. Tomatoes left to sprawl (indeterminate) need3 to 4 feet between plants. Apply compost tea and an organic liquid leaf spray every 7 to 14 days. Once flowers bloom, side-dress plants with compost. Use soft twine, strips of cloth, or strips cut from old pantyhose to tie up branches to stakes. Rough garden twine can cut into your plant, so we don't recommend using it.

PRUNING

Pruned tomato plants are likely to produce fruit two weeks earlier than un-pruned plants. Carefully break or cut off lower branches that grow downwards. Pinch off any suckers (sprouts that grow between the main stem and the branches), leaving them on the top 1/3 of the plant to help shade the plant from sun scald. Do this early in the season while the sprouts are still easy to pinch off. Both of these parts of the plant suck energy out of the plant rather than putting that energy into production.

Occasionally pinch off the tip of the plant to promote more flowering and fruit production. Continue weekly dose of liquid organic leaf spray until bloom. Once plants flower, side-dress plants with compost.

WATERING

Watering amounts should be moderate to high until fruit begins to ripen. During ripening, only small amounts of water should be applied to plants. This promotes better flavor in the tomatoes. Avoid over-head watering. This may cause disease and split the fruit. Try either drip irrigation, or if your garden area is small you can easily apply with a bucket, or watering can. Consistent watering practices also help to maintain plant health and prevent disease which can harm root growth and blossom production.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Good companions with tomatoes are cucumber, lettuce, onion, parsley, basil (repels mosquito and flies), asparagus, bush beans, celery, carrots, mint, chives (promote health), and garlic. Separate nightshade family plants in your garden from each other. These include potatoes (prone to early and late blight), tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. They are subject to the same diseases. Tobacco is also of the nightshade family and even smoking around (or touching the plant after holding a cigarette) can spread tobacco mosaic to your tomato plants. It is also not recommended to be growing tomatoes near the cabbage family, mature dill plants (inhibits growth), and corn (which attracts the horn worm).

WHEN TO HARVEST

For immediate usage, tomatoes are best harvested when they turn red (or what ever their ripening color may be) but are still firm on the shoulder of the fruit. Pick ripe fruit daily; do not over ripen. Another method for achieving ripe tomatoes before the frost hits is to "stress" them by cutting the roots about half way around the plant with a shovel. When a frost is predicted, you have two choices...

Option 1:Pick all tomatoes, ripe and unripe. To remove, gently twist or cut off the fruits, holding the vine with your other hand to prevent breaking the vine off. Sort (by ripeness) and place in boxes, one layer thick. Store in a dark, warm area. Even green tomatoes will ripen.

Option 2: Pull your tomato plants up, root and all and hang them up-side down in a dry, warm location such as a garage or basement. The nutrients will continue through the plant and many tomatoes will still ripen. We've had great success with this method.

STORAGE

Tomatoes don't store well but will last several days on the counter, out of direct sunlight. Don't store tomatoes in the fridge; this changes their consistency, making them mushy and less flavorful. Tomatoes are the foundation of many preserved foods. Salsas, pizza and spaghetti sauces, soups, and chopped tomatoes are staples at our home.

My brother freezes his tomatoes whole. The advantage to freezing, is that you don't need to blanch your tomatoes; when you thaw the tomatoes, the skins come off as easily as if you'd blanched them. We also discovered that broiling green tomatoes in the oven brings out the flavor and makes for fantastic salsa!

COMMON CHALLENGES

Many problems with tomatoes can be avoided by maintaining proper pH levels. Applying plenty of organic compost, well-composted manure, and rock minerals (such as lime) listed above, will strengthen your tomato plants against insects and disease. Also, give your plants as much warmth as possible in the spring. One way to accomplish this is with the use of water walls.

If using water walls (I speak from experience, here) be sure to remove them once the plant grows beyond the height of the wall. Otherwise, serious plant breakage may occur when removing the walls.

Tomato worms - If you see these large green, white-striped caterpillar, pick it off and destroy it. If you are lucky to have chickens to throw this pest to, they will be delighted with the treat.

Spider mites - If you see tiny red spots on undersides of the leaves it is likely spider mites.

Yellow speckling on leaves may indicate your plant is being feasted on by these tiny pests. Knock them off by spraying with water or use a natural, organic insecticidal soap.

Nematodes are tiny, worm-like creatures that attack the plants root system, weakening the plants immunity and stunting growth. Your best natural defense is to rotate your crops every year and buy worm-resistant seed varieties.

If you know what diseases are prevalent in your area, buying seed varieties that are resistant to those diseases will be your best prevention.

Notes:

Why Were We Told That Tomatoes are Red?

Growing tomatoes from seed gives you access to a whole different world of these native South American jewels. Tomatoes range in color from purple, green, yellow, pink, red, orange, white, & striped.

Indeterminate Tomato Varieties:

Indeterminate vines can grow from 6-20' long/tall, They are known to have better flavor than determinate types and keep growing and producing until good frost. Pruning these plants is necessary for good production or too much energy goes into growing the vine.

Determinate Tomato Varieties:

Determinate varieties(bush varieties) grow 1-3' long/tall. The main stem produces about 3 flower clusters; when flowers form at the tip, production stops. Determinate plants set fruit once and stop. They're an excellent choice for canning or preserving when you need a large quantity at once.

What Does it Mean by 'Days' on My Seed Packet?

The most important clue to look for when choosing your tomato seeds is how many days the plant takes to produce ripe fruit. When a catalog lists 'days' under the description of the seed, this is what it is referring to. Day 1 starts the day the plant is transplanted to the outdoors, not germination. Tomato plants can vary in time it takes to mature from 65 -90 days. Where we live, there is about75 good growing days so we choose varieties that have no more than 75 days.

Growing Tomatoes Using Organic Methods

Barry Brown
On The Green Farms

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Simple Organic Methods to Combat Pests in your Veggie Garden

Organic gardeners always prefer to use methods that have the least negative effect on the environment. By growing strong healthy plants we eliminate the threat of having large scale pest invasions. But when some pest populations do build up in our garden we should be asking “how can I encourage more predators?”, rather than “what should I do about all these pests?”





For every pest you have in excess there is at least one, and probably many predators that would happily relieve you of the excess. Sometimes is takes predator populations a little longer to build than it does the pest it feasts on, so give it a little time before pulling out the big guns – insecticides.





Remember that ‘organic’ does not mean less poisonous and that most sprays are indiscriminate. Bearing that in mind, here are some organic ways to deal with a few persistant bug problems.





Bug Juice – A very effective insecticide. Collect an assortment of pests – grasshoppers are excellent – from wherever you are having pest problems in your garden. Liquefy them in a blender with the addition of about a third of the volume of bugs. Strain and dilute to about 5ml of bug juice per 1litre of water. Spray on affected plants.





Snails and Slugs. Fortunately there are a few easy ways to deal with these ravenous creatures as they can devour your tender seedlings overnight. Ducks are great snail and slug hunters and will delight wandering around the garden in search and destroy mode. The only minor damage you can expect is from their heavy feed, but they’ll generally not eat your greens as chooks would. Of course you can collect the snails and slugs and throw them to your chooks if you keep them – they’ll be delighted! The best time for collection is dawn and dusk when it is moist. You can also make this job easier by having cardboard or similar on the ground where they will gather.





If you don’t have chooks or ducks another method is similar to the bug juice above. You need to gather some snails and/or slugs into a container with some sugar and water. Allow it to ferment for a few days then place in the blender. You can dilute it with water if you don’t have much ‘juice’ and sprinkle it around problem areas.





Another method is to make a coffee spray. This works by spraying it thoroughly on and around the seedlings you want to protect. When the snails or slugs cross areas that have been sprayed they absorb the caffeine and die. Dilute one part strong espresso coffee to 10 parts hot water. When it’s cool, pour into a spray bottle and spray on plants that you want to protect and the immediate area around them.





Then there’s the time honoured traditional snail catcher – yes, the beer in the jar trap. Partly fill a jar with beer (stale of course, you don’t want to waste the good stuff) and lay it on its side where they are most active. They are attracted to the beer, get drunk and die. What a way to go! An alternative to this is vegemite dissolved in water. They are attracted to the yeast.





Mealy bugs look like white, fluffy slaters. They are sap-sucking insects that cause leaves to wilt and go yellow. You may find them feasting away on your fruiting plants and ornamentals such as palms, ferns, orchids and succulents.





They prefer the sheltered conditions of a glass house or indoors. Mealy bugs exude a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew which can lead to sooty mould fungus and ants (ants feed on the honeydew).





The best way to deal with them is to prune off the most damaged parts of the plant and then kill any remaining bugs by dabbing them with a cottonwool ball dipped in methylated spirits. This will dissolve their waxy protective coating, they will dehydrate and die.





Scale are sucking insects that feed on plant sap. They form in thick clusters on the leaves and soft growth of many garden plants. They also produce honeydew as a waste by-product of their feeding. Heavy infestations can cause stunted growth and wilting.





If you only have a small infestation you can scrape them off your plant with your fingernail or a toothbrush. Larger numbers can be sprayed with a solution of homemade oil spray. You can also use the oil spray to eliminate citrus leaf-miner and red spider mite. When you coat them thoroughly, the pests are suffocated by the oil.





Home-made oil spray.





1. Add 500ml of vegetable oil to 250ml of pure liquid soap to a bowl.





2. Mix together in a blender and then store in a jar.





3. Dilute 1tablespoon in 1litre of water. Spray, making sure you get under all the leaves.





Have kitchen utensils and a blender that are dedicated specifically for the purpose of spray preparation.





Use all sprays with extreme caution and do not eat from any plant that has been sprayed for at least two weeks.

Julie is an avid organic gardener and recycler, living on a small country property in South Australia. Her mission is to encourage as many people as possible to garden organically. Please visit her website for great organic gardening tips & info or Companion Planting Guide

www.1stoporganicgardening.com

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3 Reasons You Might Want To Use Organic Methods of Killing Weeds

Why would someone choose organic weed control? Scientific studies have shown numerous reasons why chemical weed control is harmful. All the same, the majority of folks never figure out how to make a change. It can be hard to begin if you don't know what steps to take. Sometimes we get set in our ways and don't want to really examine our beliefs. And other times, we don't try because we don't understand the possible positive aspects to it, as well as the many benefits involved.

As soon as you grasp how this works, your vision clears and likely obstacles seem less difficult or important. Understanding is key. Through looking at the benefits and drawbacks of killing weeds naturally, let's have a look at three argument points in favor:

To begin with, it's better for your plants. Yes, your concern that it's harder and costs more money might be valid. Still, remember that chemical weed control kills the micro-organisms in the soil, and the earthworms that keep soil aerated and full of nutrition for your plants. Without microbes and earthworms, your soil becomes hard and deadened.

Next comes our consideration for songbirds, frogs, and other wildlife in our garden. Studies have shown that chemical weed control products can harm wildlife in the garden. Also, runoff from our gardens that gets into streams can kill fish and amphibians there. And added to that, our groundwater can become polluted with these chemicals.

Lastly, using organic weed control methods is healthier for us and our children. If you have children and pets that play in your garden, remember that they are smaller than adults, so what has been deemed a "harmless" amount of herbicide residue for adults may not be harmless for them. Scientific studies have shown that children and pets are more likely to be harmed by residues from pesticides. Once more, consider that you should utilize organic weed control solutions whenever possible!

Now, think about those reasons. If you choose organic weed control, wouldn't you feel better knowing your family is safe?

Many other people have opted to choose natural ways of controlling weeds in their gardens. Mightn't you also benefit from learning more about organic techniques? I hope you will use organic methods of killing weeds in your garden.

Genevieve Schmidt is a Humboldt County, Ca Landscape Designer and Garden Coach.

Find out tips to get rid of weeds naturally in her eBook about organic weed control at www.northcoastgardening.com.

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As biological control methods to get rid of weeds effectively

Weeds grow aggressively in lawns, gardens and nature reserves. These unwanted plants and sunscreen all the important nutrients needed for growing plants. Determination of the two life cycles of weeds such as annual or perennial plants in the emission process considered important.

One of the best methods is the destruction of biological weed control. This method is cheaper and easier to manage. Mulching and the use of gardening tools are the best practices for getting rid of weeds.

Mulch
Garden Mulchis a protective layer in the soil, the weeds removed. It 'used to protect wires, compaction and erosion. This method can be used to support the growing plants. And conditions and keep the heat in the soil. The best time to mulch in the fall and spring.

The mulch can be divided into three methods:
First mulching film - is the best method for control of perennial weeds. It 'easy to cut as transient and store equipment. The mulch can prevent damageRoot vegetables and fruit. It can also improve the use of the cover of bark or gravel.

Types of litter can be identified as:
or geotextile - This is a nonwoven fabric or a sheet of polypropylene and polyester needled permeable. This can be seen as a barrier between the soil and mulch in bulk will be used to reduce perennial weeds.
or black (white) plastic sheeting - are blacks plastic sheeting (400-600 gauge silage film) as the earth warms. He claimsher wet.
or fiber sheets - This is a biodegradable wooden garden size applications, such as seeds, trees and flowers developed carpet.
Or newspapers - are a total of 8 sheets of heavy paper, with the tops of weeds, including compost and remove stems that keep weeds from gardens. This is a document of this slurry can be forked, and organic matter in soil.
Or cardboard - A brown cardboard box is more effective if it breaks and encouragesEarthworms. This material allows air flow and also the water penetrates.

Ornate second litter - which improves the scenery along the way and the whole court. Blends with the colors and patterns of home. Permeable membranes with wood chips and gravel, this will prevent soil subsidence.

Third litter organic - This is widely used mulch and flowers berry bushes. Conditions and nourishes the soil. It also protects against drought in summer and alsodrainage improvements. Some of its features are:
Easy to implement or at a reasonable price.
or freedom of movement and allow adequate ventilation.
The nitrogen or too low.
Without water is not saturated.

Organic mulch can act as seed leaf mold base for composting can be used as. Through the collection of autumn leaves in a bag and left at the end to contribute to red, add nutrients to the soil. maintained pine needles and grass can soil moisture. For "NO DIGGardening is the best fertilizer for roses, pumpkins and cucumbers, among other things, especially during the late spring or winter. Other species used straw, hay, grass, green leaves, compost and garden.

The use of the line garden meets the implementation of biological weed control. This usually help gardeners and eliminate weeds without penalty. Fork tools can also remove underground stems of perennial weeds without cutting the rootPlants or even damage the crops. While the garden claws act as a breeder of small gardens to resolve the weeds, the claw can simply use fertilizer or top of a repetitive action. To touch the roots and weeds disturbed, you can use a Dutch hoe, shovel and spade.

For proper use of bio-control method, you must cover the target of 100% cut the grass and open spaces. Regular inspections and immediate activities of weeds, while the youth is necessary. Regular mowing issufficient. Nothing is safer than the use of bio-process to eliminate weeds.

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